Installing brake pads at home is a doable job if you have basic mechanical skills, the right tools, and you follow safety steps. Below is a general, step-by-step guide for replacing disc brake pads (most common). Vehicle designs vary, so always consult your vehicle’s service manual for model-specific procedures, torque values, and any special steps (for example, some cars have electronic parking brakes or different caliper designs).

What you’ll need

• New brake pads (correct for your make/model)
• Brake cleaner spray
• Brake grease (high-temperature, pad backing/slide lubricant)
• C-clamp or caliper piston tool for retracting piston(s)
• Jack and jack stands (never rely on the jack alone)
• Lug wrench or impact wrench
• Ratchet and socket set or wrench set (common caliper bolts)
• Torque wrench (to factory torque specs)
• Flat screwdriver or small pry bar
• Wire brush or small file (cleaning)
• Rubber gloves and safety glasses
• Rags or shop towels
• Optional: bungee cord or piece of wire to hang caliper; anti-squeal shims (if provided)
• Container for used brake fluid (if you open the hydraulic system)

Safety first

• Work on a flat, level surface and chock the wheels that remain on the ground.
• Use jack stands — never work under a car supported only by a jack.
• Wear safety glasses and gloves. Brake dust may contain harmful particles; avoid blowing it into the air. Use brake cleaner and a damp rag to clean.
• Follow manufacturer torque specs for lug nuts and caliper bolts.

Step-by-step procedure (single wheel)

1. Prepare the vehicle

   • Park on level ground, engage parking brake (or block wheels).
   • Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly while the car is on the ground.
   • Jack the car and secure with jack stands. Remove the wheel.

2. Inspect the brake assembly

   • Take note of how the pads, clips, and caliper are installed. A photo helps.
   • Inspect rotor surface for deep grooves or heavy rust—if rotor is badly worn, it may need resurfacing or replacement.

3. Remove the caliper

   • Locate and remove the caliper guide bolts (usually two). Keep hardware.
   • Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose — support it with a bungee cord or hook it to the suspension.
   • If the caliper is stuck, gently pry it free (careful not to damage the hose).

4. Remove old pads and hardware

   • Slide out the old pads and any retaining clips or shims.
   • Inspect pad wear to see if it was even (uneven wear can indicate other issues).
   • Remove and clean any anti-rattle clips or hardware; replace if worn.

5. Retract the caliper piston(s)

   • Use a C-clamp or piston tool to press the caliper piston back into the caliper housing slowly. Put an old pad between the piston and clamp to spread the force evenly.
   • If brake fluid level in the master cylinder is near the top, remove some fluid before retracting to avoid overflow. Keep fluid away from painted surfaces.

6. Clean and prepare

   • Clean the caliper, bracket, and slide pins with brake cleaner. Use a wire brush for rust/debris.
   • Lubricate slide pins with appropriate high-temperature brake grease (do NOT get grease on pad friction surfaces or rotor).
   • Apply a thin coat of brake grease to pad backing where they contact the caliper bracket and to the contact points for shims (if manufacturer recommends).

7. Install new pads and hardware

   • Install any new clips or shims that came with the pads.
   • Slide the new pads into place in the bracket.

8. Reinstall the caliper

   • Carefully position the caliper over the pads and rotor. Make sure the piston aligns and doesn’t deform the pad backing.
   • Reinstall and torque the caliper guide bolts to the manufacturer’s specification.

9. Reassemble wheel

   • Reinstall the wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts. Lower the vehicle, then torque lug nuts to the specified pattern and torque.

10. Repeat for other side

• Replace pads on the opposite wheel on the same axle (always replace in pairs on an axle) and follow the same steps.

11. Final checks before driving

• With the car on the ground, before driving, pump the brake pedal slowly until it firms up (this pushes pistons out against the new pads). It may take several pumps. Do not drive until the pedal is firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top up if necessary with the correct type (DOT3/DOT4, etc.). Clean any spilled fluid promptly.
• Inspect for leaks around caliper and hose connections.

12. Break-in (bed-in) new pads

• Follow the pad manufacturer’s recommended bedding procedure (commonly: perform several moderate stops from city speeds — e.g., 20–35 mph to 5–10 mph — without coming to a full stop, then allow them to cool). Proper bedding improves performance and longevity.

13. Test drive

• Perform a careful, low-speed test in a safe area to ensure proper braking, no noises, and no pulling. Re-check torque on wheel nuts after initial short drive (per manufacturer guidance).

Notes, tips, and common variations

• Rear brakes: many parking-brake-equipped rear calipers require the piston to be rotated-in as it is retracted (e.g., a hex or star fitting) — use the correct tool. Some cars have drum-in-hat parking brakes. Consult manual.
• Electronic parking brakes: you may need to use a scan tool or follow a specific procedure to retract pistons. Check your vehicle manual.
• Rotors: If rotors are thin, scored, or out of spec, replace or have them resurfaced. Rotors should typically be replaced or machined in pairs (both sides of axle) for best results.
• Hardware: Replace worn shims, clips, and slide pins. Cheap pads often don’t include quality hardware; replacing hardware can prevent noise and uneven wear.
• Torque specs: Always use factory torque specs for lug nuts and caliper bolts — commonly 70–100 ft-lbs for wheels on many passenger cars but this varies widely. Use your manual.

Signs you shouldn’t do it yourself

• If you’re not comfortable with jacking and supporting the car, handling brake hydraulics, or torquing to spec.
• If the brake system requires special tools (electronic parking brake reset tools) you don’t have.
• If you discover other problems (leaking caliper, badly damaged rotors) and you’re not confident repairing them.

Disposal

• Used brake pads and brake fluid are automotive waste; dispose of them per local regulations. Many auto parts stores accept used pads and fluids for recycling.

If you want, tell me the car make, model, year, and whether it’s front or rear so I can give model-specific notes (caliper type, typical torque specs, or whether an electronic parking brake may be present).